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Old 12-19-2008, 04:13 AM   #11
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I live on a very very busy main road, artic lorries, coaches, you name it I have it pass my front door. I make sure that the front door is never left open, when I'm taking the dogs for a walk their leads are on before the get anywhere near an open door, I just won't take a chance on them getting out I also have a walled garden but gates can be left open.

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Old 12-19-2008, 06:09 AM   #12
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I live on a very very busy main road, artic lorries, coaches, you name it I have it pass my front door. I make sure that the front door is never left open, when I'm taking the dogs for a walk their leads are on before the get anywhere near an open door, I just won't take a chance on them getting out I also have a walled garden but gates can be left open.
That's the best option, you can never trust that something untoward will happen.
Here is a clip of clicker training in action with a novice dog.
http://clickertraining.tv/product.html?item=FREE-29
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Old 12-19-2008, 01:08 PM   #13
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Thank you for the advice. As far as the clicker goes, for those of you that have used it would you use any other training method now that you have tried it or is this in your opinion "THE" way to train?
I agree that the fence is definitely the only way to be sure or at least in the event of an emergency.

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Old 12-19-2008, 01:17 PM   #14
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Fencing of 5 acreas is what I trust and my dogs are safe. I can run in for a glass of ice tea and feel safe. We used to not have a gate up and we live back on a road traveled now heavier than when I had horses. I would never ride a horse up on it now. It has built up around here now, but we put a gate up after a female decided to take a walk and got hit. She broke her pelvis, heart was detached, a bunch of stuff.

My vet saved her in few days she came home to six weeks of a crate I never owned. She adapted to it well and no steps, so had to walk potty that was a real pain as mine like to run and go freely. It was a scarey thing I never want to go through again when you can put all kinds of fencing up.

We keep the gate closed when all the dogs are running, when Gino n Girle are out, they sit on the porch and wait for me, I trust them, but fencing is the safest way of all the training gimmicks in the world. Trust me!!
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:18 PM   #15
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Thank you for the advice. As far as the clicker goes, for those of you that have used it would you use any other training method now that you have tried it or is this in your opinion "THE" way to train?
I agree that the fence is definitely the only way to be sure or at least in the event of an emergency.
I use it a LOT now, from tricks and some basic training to fears and aggressions. I've also successfully clicker trained horses and parrots.

Clicker training is the methods that Sea World uses on their dolphins, except they use a whistle because it's easier for the animals to hear, and zoos use them to train their wild animals for zookeeper safety (things like the animals moving into holding cages while their yards are cleaned, conditioning them to accept medical evaluations through the cage so the animal doesn't have to be sedated). Wild animals that are trained to perform for movies are typically clicker trained as well.

It really is an all around good method.

Is it the only one I use? No. But I do use primarily positive reinforcement (clicker training is positive reinforcement). No physical corrections or correctional collars. If I'm not clicker training or otherwise using positive reinforcement, I'm using body language, negative punishment (like say for example, a puppy nips me when we're playing. I say "ouch!" then stop play by getting up and ignoring the puppy. Ending playtime was a negative punishment, it's taking something away) and the concept of no consequence (dog jumps on me, I ignore it, it's not getting him attention, there's no consequence, so eventually he'll stop).

But really I use a mix of all those, it's rarely just one or the other. Like the jumping dog I mentioned. I don't just ignore. I use body language by folding my arms, turning my back to the dog and not looking at him. I kick in positive reinforcement when he sits, so his behavior will eventually get modified. He'll learn that jumping gets him no attention, but sitting will get him tons. Eventually when people walk in the door, he'll be sitting as hard as he can instead of jumping like a maniac!
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Old 12-20-2008, 12:14 AM   #16
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Thanks for the advice guys. You've been helpful. I went out earlier and got a clicker but have yet to use it yet so I'm kinda anxious to see how it will work out.

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Old 12-20-2008, 12:48 AM   #17
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Thats great

Do you have info on how to condition the dog to the clicker and understand how it works?
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Old 12-20-2008, 05:00 AM   #18
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I do not like them or trust them. It is ok for simple things, but not for teaching a dog to keep off the highway. I do not trust dogs and roads or never a highway everrrrr.
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Old 12-21-2008, 02:33 AM   #19
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The road is a definite prevention issue. Quite simply, try your hardest to not let the dog out with out a leash. This I realize. However the dog doesn't have the first clue what obedience means. Untill I offered to help, my gf didn't even work on come or sit.


I've done some reading and watched a few videos on the net and got a good understanding of how it works. The only thing that I think is going to be challenging is to figure out when to begin using the command with the clicker and when to phase out the clicker. That I may have to do some more reading or even ask for advice from one of you guys. Any advice or helpful hints?

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Old 12-21-2008, 05:55 AM   #20
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Yeah, it does seem kind of strange to sometimes add the cue in AFTER you've taught the dog to do it lol.

Usually you want to have some degree of predictability before you start adding the cue. So for example, teaching sit using a treat lure involves holding a treat just above your dogs head and moving it slightly back, so the dog sits as the nose follows. Some dogs will jump, stand on their hind legs, sit up, attack your hand etc while your trying to get the behavior "sit". At that point, saying "sit" does no good but confuse the dog. You want to keep your mouth shut, be patient and only click and treat while she's learning what you want her to do when you hold the treat just above her head. With the lure method you ignore all attempts to get the treat except sitting (she'll eventually sit, even if it's out of impatience lol), it won't take long after she sits 2 or 3 times to understand. After she starts getting the idea and sitting for the food lure instead of jumping or attacking your hand, you can start adding the cue as she's doing it, right before she completes it, then sit and treat the second she does.

Once she's pretty reliable with that and understands (9 out of 10 times, she obeys), you can remove the clicker and treat her/praise her as normal. The clicker is basically for teaching new things. Once the dog learns it, there's no need for the clicker unless your refining something like a heel. At that point after removing the clicker, next is to phase out treats. Be unpredictable, give her a treat a few times, then only praise the next couple times. If she likes toys, you can reward her with a toy sometimes. If she'll work for praise alone, then you can easily get away with very sparingly giving her a food treat.
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