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Old 07-22-2010, 02:36 PM   #1
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Default Agility training! SO MUCH FUN!

Hello all:
I got this agility set years back, tried to train Arty but my other dog just kept getting in the way wanting to play, if I tried to keep her away she got really sad so I stopped doing it, and I had a baby too ;o).
Anyway, my other dog is not as interested in playing like Arty still is, so I pulled out the agility set today adn set it up in my backyard..

Well I think Arty is going to be amazing at it.. He did the weaving really well, I just kept saying weave with a treat in my hand so that he would follow my hand - he liked doing it!
Any pointers out there in training? When can you just back off and not use treats?

Also he does the tube well, I have trained him to do through my legs, so I used the through command again with a treat - he will actually do that one without a treat!!! So proud.

But when it comes to jumping over the pole, how do I train him to do that? If I tell him jump he just wants to jump on me.

Really excited to start this new chapter!

Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
PS: I don't have the money to enroll him in agility classes - otherwise I would... But I love training, and want this to be something special for him and I to do together.. okay, I'll shut up now ;o)

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Old 07-22-2010, 05:05 PM   #2
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If you PC-Internet is fast enough you can watch videos on it or try your local library for DVDs on the subject. I am sure a number or people here can give you suggestions too.
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:31 PM   #3
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If you are not ever (and I do mean ever) going to compete, then don't worry how to train. Have fun. Don't worry about removing the treats as it doesn't matter when it's non competition. And yes, then looking at youtube videos on how to train the weaves, tunnel and umps will be helpful.

If you MAY someday compete, then you have to be very, very careful how you train. You must get a trainer to help you keep from avoiding the millions of ways to train incorrectly.

If you're going to train for no competition, then you don't need to worry about how to train him to correct umping form. You can set the bar down low and lure him over with a treat.

Remember safety....never make your dog ump higher than his elbows if you're not doing it for competition. Repetitive umping can cause inury when the dog is not trained to correct form (which takes several months of intensive ump training). Otherwise your weaves and tunnel (not called a tube ) are safe to use as long as the weaves are spaced apart properly (20 to 24").
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:41 PM   #4
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Thanks so much! Im just training for fun! Looking for activities for my dog and I to do together... He's a border collie cross, so he's always up to learn new tricks and such.
Arty will be happy to hear I can keep the treats ;o)!!I'll have to get onto youtube soon, I have never really been on that site.

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Old 07-24-2010, 11:09 PM   #5
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Isn't it fun? I've been having a blast with Ashenpaw in classes, and recently I just started to teach Parker the bare bone basics to see if he has potential. Can't get enough! Ash and I are hoping to do his first run in September.

You mentioned the jumps... if Arty is clicker trainable here is how we worked teaching jumps for the first time in class. With the bar on the floor (or very low) stand with a treat ready but at your side. Put Arty on one side then stand beside the jump looking at the floor on the opposite where you want Arty to end up. Don't say anything, just wait for him to work it out. When Arty walks through the uprights of the jump, click and treat. You are simply teaching him to go through the uprights. When he has this figured out pretty solidly, move the bar up slightly. Not too high, you want confidence to build with success. Eventually you will be able to put Arty in a sit, move to the other side and call him across the jump to the back of your hand (called 'collecting your dog').
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Old 07-25-2010, 07:51 PM   #6
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It's such fun. I have a trial coming up in a couple of weeks running both dogs. Myka's second trial and this one is outdoors. I end up so tired at the end of a trial, but it's a great kind of tired.

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Old 07-26-2010, 07:45 AM   #7
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I have discovered Arty will only weave for cheese, I tried his normal treats and he looked at me like "ya right"..
I'm trying to teach both dogs "touch" too, with this hot weather I need to entertain them indoors.

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Old 07-26-2010, 09:21 AM   #8
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Glad that you're getting on well!

We started agility training a couple months or so ago and both I, and the dogs, love it!

We've been training with channel weaves which our trainer reckons are easier to teach with, and they're the bit Oscar finds hardest - but he loves his agility.

ps - if you can get it, Liver Sausage (looks like salami, texture of pate though) is a BIG winner for us - Oscar will do anything for liver sausage, as will every other dog in our class... I fail miserably to get his attention with anything else.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:15 AM   #9
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well I always call rollover crack cocaine for my dogs, so I will be picking up some of that soon! We are getting ready for a cottage trip which I am so excited about! The dogs get to go on boat rides, swim etc. But I'm going to try to do some training up there too.

Oh and Arty isn't clicker trained.. I bought a clicker years ago but never really used it.. He's REALLY food motivated.

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Old 07-26-2010, 03:01 PM   #10
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Mel, if you pop back into this thread...there's a trick to training channel weaves to the end. You need to add gates after the poles go straight together. The dog will slow down a bit as they adust to the gates. Once the dog gets the gates, pull them up from the center out to the ends as fast as you can. You leave the gates on long at all and you're toast. The dog will learn to weave only with gates on.

I personally use the channel method, but it has to be taught right and done right.

Other methods to consider...Weave-a-Matics (like channels sort of, but for bigger dogs...Weave-a-Matics encourage single step weaving...channels bunny hop. For my students, GENERALLY dogs over 16" do WAMs and dogs under do channels). 2X2...great for the good clicker trainer. Gate method only...good if you know what you're doing.

There are tricks to getting dogs to do all the methods.
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